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The Rolex Submariner certainly doesn’t spark controversy.
Requesting a gathering of music, design, or fashion professionals to identify the most significant album, structure, or series from the 20th century could easily spark controversy. However, pose this question to a cadre of timepiece specialists, and their response would likely converge on one singular choice. the Rolex Submariner Since its initial production in 1953, the Submariner (which is now referred to merely as the "Sub" among collectors) has transformed from an unassuming piece of diving equipment To the benchmark for luxurious sports watches, and an iconic office diver. Combining the functionality of a robust diving instrument (as it was the initial dive watch certified to 100 meters) with the elegance of high fashion (offered in solid gold since 1969), the Submariner has certainly secured its place as one of the most coveted treasures across seven decades.
Hold up, why does the Rolex Submariner generate so much buzz?
The Submariner is equipped with numerous high-end features such as a 904L stainless steel case, also known as Oystersteel, Chromalight luminescence, and a Cerachrom bezel, which is superior to regular ceramics. Over time, it has received various smart enhancements including an adjustable Glidelock bracelet and a variety of vibrant dial and bezel options, along with models featuring gold accents and two-tone finishes called Rolesor. However, what truly excites watch enthusiasts and drives substantial interest in vintage Submariners around the world stems from their unwavering reliability and consistent performance throughout the years.
Does That Hold Up? What Changes Have Occurred Over Time?
"Everyone created a diving watch in the 1960s, but the Submariner stands out as the most iconic one because it has essentially remained unchanged," he states. Sacha Davidoff A vintage watch specialist from Geneva states, "It's similar to the Porsche 911; it remains the same vehicle with continuous internal upgrades." Just like this renowned German sports car, Davidoff notes that the Submariner has seen gradual modifications over time which have enhanced its reliability and durability compared to earlier models. However, the core design elements remain unchanged—a testament to their enduring appeal—including the distinctive geometric hour indicators, the signature 'Mercedes' hand, the revolving bezel, and the Oyster bracelet. This consistency makes the Submariner significant, he adds. According to Davidoff, Rolex has managed to preserve the original essence of the model even as they've advanced its technological features.
Should I Purchase a Used or New One?
If you're thinking about becoming part of the Submariner collector community, your initial choice will be whether to go for a brand-new Submariner or an older, vintage version. Should you opt for a new one, you'll have the option to pick either the traditional non-date Submariner made from Oystersteel or the Submariner Date, which offers additional metals and color options along with its distinctive magnified date display known as the Cyclops lens. However, those interested in exploring the realm of vintage models face a much more intricate selection process.
With numerous models (or references In Rolex parlance, extending over numerous decades, many models stand out due to minute differences such as the exact number of text lines on the face or the design of the crown protectors. The realm of vintage Submariners can seem as vast and treacherous as the Mariana Trench—at least for your wallet. Regardless of the route you take, this journey involves diving into an extensive vocabulary and history specific to these timepieces. Below are some of the editions that truly excite collectors—as well as several trusted sources where you might reliably track them down.
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The Rolex Submariner Ref. 124060
For those who prefer simplicity, the current lineup offers an excellent option featuring a 41mm Oystersteel casing, a sleek black face without complications, and Rolex’s most recent self-winding mechanism. Should you require a dive watch primarily for aquatic activities, this model stands out as one of the best choices available today.
Submariner REF 124060-0001 Watch
$12000.00, Bezel
Submariner REF 124060-0001 Watch
$11550.00, Bezel
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610LV
To mark the Submariner's 50th anniversary in 2003, Rolex released a new version featuring a green bezel (with "LV" signifying lunette verte) That was later referred to as "Kermit" by fans, inspired by the renowned singing frog from The Muppets.
Submariner Date Model REF 16610LV Watch
$13970.00, Bezel
Submariner Date Model REF 16610LV Watch
$16040.00, Bezel
The Rolex Submariner Reference 116610LV
Following the discontinuation of the Kermit model in 2010, Rolex increased the excitement by introducing a variant with a green dial, which became quite popular. This steel submarine goes by its "Hulk" nickname. .
Submariner "Hulk" Watch
$18370.00, Bezel
2011 Submariner "Hulk" Watch
$18500.00, Bezel
The Rolex Submariner Reference 116610
In the year 2010, the Submariner Date underwent significant transformations, featuring a ceramic bezel, Chromalight luminescence, a fresh movement mechanism, and most distinctively, a sturdier build characterized by larger lugs and enhanced crown protectors.
Submariner REF 16610 Watch
$9540.00, Bezel
Submariner REF 16610 Watch
$9435.00, Bezel
The Rolex Submariner Reference 6538
This particular Sub was manufactured between 1954 and 1959 and stands out due to its large winding crown without guard protection. However, what truly sets it apart is that it was the first such timepiece. worn by Sean Connery appearing in hit movies like Dr. No, From Russia with Love, and Goldfinger, setting it permanently as the "Bond Sub."
1957 Submariner 6538
$.00, Craft and Tailored
The Rolex Submariner Reference 116619LB
To celebrate its 2008 centennial, Rolex introduced the first Submariner featuring a case and bracelet crafted from 18k white gold. This notable model, which has been discontinued, came equipped with a blue dial and coordinating bezel. As you might guess, it earned the nickname "Smurf."
White Gold Rolex Submariner Date "Smurf" Watch
$41225.00, Bezel
White Gold Rolex Submariner Date "Smurf" Watch
$32000.00, Bezel
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 168000
The "Triple-Zero" was the initial Submarine model featuring an enhanced 904L steel casing, signifying the transition from traditional to contemporary Submariner styles. As it had only been produced for under a year during the latter part of the 1980s, this particular timepiece has become quite sought after within recent decades.
1987 Submariner Date Watch
$8750.00, Bezel
1986 Rolex Submariner Date Timepiece
$8700.00, Bezel
The Rolex Submariner Reference 1680
The introduction of the initial Submariner Date model, known as the 1680, signaled the transition of the Submariner series from a rugged utilitarian timepiece to an iconic fashion accessory often worn for style rather than function. Produced between the late 1960s and 1980, this version became notable as the first Submariner offered entirely in solid gold and in dual-toned configurations. Among these models were the "Red Sub" editions, distinguished by their crimson-colored brand name on the face, making them highly desirable among collectors due to this distinctive feature.
1982 Rolex Submariner Date Timepiece
$24400.00, Bezel
1978 Rolex Submariner Date Timepiece
$12550.00, Bezel
The Rolex Submariner Reference 5513
If you're interested in delving into vintage Submariners without breaking the bank, this particular model, manufactured between 1962 and 1989, serves as an excellent starting point. More recent versions may cost upwards of $40,000—still relatively accessible compared to others but quite steep nonetheless—and notably, these were famously sported by James Bond. On Her Majesty's Secret Service Live and Let Die , and The Man with the Golden Gun.
Submariner REF 5513 with Matte Dial Watch
$12995.00, Bezel
Submariner REF 5513 Watch
$21500.00, Bezel
The Rolex Submariner Ref. 1680/16800/168000 "Comex"
The French underwater engineering company Compagnie Maritime d'Expertises might not be recognizable to most people unless they're aware of its significant role in the story of the Submariner. Between the 1970s and 1990s, Rolex created several distinct versions of the Submariner specifically for COMEX divers, often featuring the COMEX insignia boldly displayed on the face of the watches. Whether this addition enhanced their appearance can be subjective. However, it does render these models among the most sought-after—and expensive—Submariners available today. It sure does .
1998 Compagnie Maritime d'Expertise Submariner 16610
$.00, 41 Watch
The Rolex Submariner Reference 5512
If you're looking for the precise time when the Sub truly matured, numerous collectors would highlight this iconic model manufactured between 1959 and 1979. Throughout its production run, the ref. 5512 saw various iterations; however, each variant can be recognized by its contemporary 40mm casing size—expanded from the previous 38mm—and protective shields beside the crown (connoisseurs of Submariners often discuss these crown guards with great interest). Additionally, it coincidentally became The submarine Steve McQueen preferred .
5512 Meters First Submariner
$23500.00, Menta Watches
1966 Submariner 5512 with Gold-Tone Dial
$36850.00, Tropical Watches